發(fā)布時(shí)間：2018-08-14 14:07

【摘要】：本文從服裝專業(yè)角度，以保安族的主要聚居地甘肅省臨夏回族自治州的積石山保安族東鄉(xiāng)族撒拉族自治縣為著眼點(diǎn)，通過實(shí)地考察、文獻(xiàn)研究等各種研究方法，對保安族不同時(shí)期的服飾及其服飾文化進(jìn)行梳理與解讀，為保安族服飾文化研究提供了有價(jià)值的參考素材，同時(shí)也提出了自己的一些觀點(diǎn)。保安族服飾是保安族文化和歷史的載體，在自然環(huán)境、社會結(jié)構(gòu)、經(jīng)濟(jì)生活、宗教信仰和風(fēng)俗習(xí)慣等因素作用下，保安族服飾形成了獨(dú)具特色的社會文化內(nèi)涵，它既承載著保安族的文化傳統(tǒng)，又體現(xiàn)了保安族的精神信仰，，表現(xiàn)出保安族服飾形態(tài)、服飾功能及其服飾文化內(nèi)涵的有機(jī)統(tǒng)一。 文章試圖通過對保安族族源和民族成分的探討，芻議保安族的服飾文化及其內(nèi)涵。反之，對民族服飾流變的探究，也是對其族群歸屬和成分的確定提供佐證和理論依據(jù)。全文共分為六部分，緒論主要闡述保安族服飾研究的背景、目的、意義以及現(xiàn)狀；繼而首章概述保安族的現(xiàn)狀、民族特征，以及對其族源的探討；二、三章為重點(diǎn)章節(jié)，以對保安族聚集的積石山縣實(shí)地調(diào)查獲得的第一手材料為依據(jù)，對保安族的歷史與現(xiàn)狀、保安族服飾的外在特征與社會文化內(nèi)涵進(jìn)行解讀和比較，同時(shí)對保安族的生態(tài)環(huán)境、經(jīng)濟(jì)生活、價(jià)值取向、宗教信仰、風(fēng)俗傳承等在服飾款式、色彩、紋樣以及著裝方式上的表現(xiàn)進(jìn)行深入的分析和詳盡的闡述，并將不同時(shí)期的保安族服飾進(jìn)行比較，以及同時(shí)期的保安族服飾與周邊的不同少數(shù)民族服飾進(jìn)行比較；第四章探討保安族服飾豐富的文化內(nèi)涵，剖析保安族服飾與保安族的民族歸屬、民族精神以及民族心理的關(guān)系；最后為結(jié)語。
[Abstract]:From the point of view of clothing specialty, this paper focuses on the Dongxiang ethnic Salar Autonomous County of Jishi Mountain Security nationality in Linxia Hui Autonomous Prefecture, Gansu Province, through field investigation, literature research and other research methods. This paper combs and interprets the clothing and dress culture of the security nationality in different periods, which provides valuable reference materials for the study of the dress culture of the security nationality, and also puts forward some viewpoints. The clothing of the security nationality is the carrier of the culture and history of the security nationality. Under the influence of the natural environment, the social structure, the economic life, the religious belief and the custom and so on, the dress of the security nationality has formed the unique social and cultural connotation. It not only bears the cultural tradition of the security group, but also embodies the spiritual belief of the security group. It shows the organic unity of the dress form, the dress function and the cultural connotation of the dress. This paper tries to discuss the costume culture and its connotation of the Gan nationality through the discussion of the origin and ethnic composition of the Gan nationality. On the other hand, the research on the evolution of ethnic dress also provides evidence and theoretical basis for the determination of ethnic groups and components. The full text is divided into six parts, the introduction mainly describes the background, purpose, significance and current situation of the study of the clothing of the Gan nationality; then the first chapter outlines the present situation, national characteristics, and the discussion of the origin of the ethnic group; the second, third chapters are the key chapters. Based on the firsthand materials obtained from the field investigation of Jishi Mountain County where the security people gathered, this paper interprets and compares the history and present situation of the security nationality, the external characteristics of the dress and the social and cultural connotation of the security nationality, and at the same time, the ecological environment of the security nationality. The performance of economic life, value orientation, religious belief, customs inheritance and so on in dress style, color, pattern and dress style are deeply analyzed and elaborated in detail, and the clothing of the security nationality in different periods is compared. The fourth chapter discusses the rich cultural connotation of the clothing of the security nationality, analyzes the relationship between the clothing of the security nationality and the national ownership, the national spirit and the national psychology, and analyzes the relationship between the clothing of the security nationality and the national belonging, the national spirit and the national psychology of the security nationality in the same period. The last is the conclusion.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：北京服裝學(xué)院
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2012
【分類號】：J523.5

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